Quite a simple system, there will be 2 modular picks with 3 accessory options: The Race and Total Dry picks will remain the same. An eye is provided on one end for clipping to a harness. Had to read that twice, mistook rate for hate. TheKailas Entheos II is probably the sexiest looking CNC milled axe out there. Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Mountain Hardwear Alpine Light 35 & 50 old vs new, Patagonia DAS Light REVIEW and Micro Puff Comparison. These new tools from Grivel look and feel amazing! Over the past two years, these loaners have been used by everyone from Petzls own athletes to your everyday weekend warrior, and have spent barely a week or two at home during the winter months. Quite comfortable to hang onto, its designed to be wrapped with a tape or bike tubing for grip as well as a customized feel. The picks that will now be hot forged are: Grivels new Duetto helmet is similar in construction to Petzls original Sirocco in that its made entirely of EPP. I am not a good ice climber, so I only climb easy ice. The Master is a good shout for an awesome all rounder that ticks most of the boxes. View all posts by Monte Johnston. The handle on the reactor is horrible, especially when trying to use the upper grip. It's worth retrofitting the axes with some Russian or Polish picks for mixed. Looking to get started in a new outdoor sport? I now climb with the little BD tool on my harness for quickly re-tightening if necessary. The new reactor looks very similar as well. After two years of regular use and abuse, I am happy to report that the Ergonomic has had no major issues. Harder to get spare picks though while on the move (than BD or Petzl). A kinda cross between the BD Snaggletooth and the Cassin Alpinist Pro. we are not shipping to the uk at the moment. Have you met any other punters like myself who love this thing? Really more of a tether than a leash in my mind but updated all-the-same. I know Petzl made a small run of Nomics, 2nd generation, whit ergo type handle way before X dream ever came to market. This new V-Thread hooker from Petzl is a little reminiscent of Grivels offering. just comparing the damage to my regular axes against the damage from justa couple of routes with the Quantum Tech's to the carbon wrap. I have the Quantum Tech and don't think they would stand up well. Designed mainly for mixed and steep, featured ice the Xs handle is set back farther and doesnt have a spike or clip-in point. So Fusion 2 is a copy of the Nomic - check. I could see the shaft getting obliterated after couple of mixed routes. Theyre workable, but not ideal I stick to rock thats at least vertical or steeper when using the Ergos. Two weeks ago, I ran across a guy that was using a prototype of Grivel Dark machine X. Nomic like swing, toyish weight and super comfortable handle coated with rubber stuff like on all other dry tooling tools from Grivel. This means that youll be able to just buy the front portion of the new Darts if youre upgrading from a Lynx, Dart, Dartwin, etc. Made for a good read! Black Diamond Hot Forged Natural Ice Pick, Black Diamond Hot Forged Natural Ice+ Pick, Black Diamond Hot Forged Mountain Classic Pick, Available today 9:00 am - 6:00 pm eastern. Eventually, as stock on the old picks disappears, the new modular system will also be made available with replacement picks. Feed back was phenomenal but Petzl decided differently. I have the Quantum Tech and don't think they would stand up well. Add any text here or remove it. Are you mistaking it for the Force Alloy, as they are very different animals? The Outdoor Gear Exchange has a large selection of ice climbing and mountaineering tools from Petzl, Black Diamond, CAMP, and Grivel. But as said, not a copy of something, but mod of existing to be akin to something. Find out here how! (If you havent read my ridiculously in-depth analysis of the latest generation Petzl tools, head here first for some background, weights, pick differences and other info: link). The color has also been changed from orange to green. I do really like the handle, especially with the large finger rest, and the shape is overall more comfortable for use with heavier-weight gloves. Petzl also added a few small tertiary points for additional security when standing on funky ice bulges and petals. There are more but the top list shows innovation. Again, nothing unusual Ive seen much worse on other tools, and besides, these small nicks dont affect grip or functionality. Funny, everyone keeps saying the ErgoN is awkward on easy ice. Special thanks to Raf for a few photos (Camp/Cassin Products) to replace several I lost due to some data corruption. But with better hammer option. One of the disadvantages to hot forging is the additional finishing work that is required. The Nomics were just a copy of Quark Ergos. Cheers for all of your pretty detailed responses! But seeing how their last copy performed, I'm going to let someone else find out. Maybe the Reactor is more like the Fusion 1 i dunno. sometimes involving pitons and the occasional bitof tooling. I hope this helps. This moves the center of balance towards the head of the tool giving it a more natural swing without the need for any pick weights. And yet, Petzl was at the week long ice camp in Norway so I got to use whatever I wanted for mostly 3+ up to 4+ ice. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. Fuels and Reactors could be good but I haven't seen anyone using them so hard to get first hand opinions. MSRP will be $249.95 USD. Hello all,I've been a more or less proud owner of nomics (gen2) for the past 3 or 4 years and have now managed to break (bad case of wobbly head) my second nomic in this time. Cassin is also coming out with a modular pick/accessory system which will be phased into use starting next fall. Petzl Nomic ice ax symbol of the french brand and designed for ice climbing, confirms itself as a reference point for fans of ice climbing in a new lightened and improved compared to the previous version. i was so disappointed with the Fusions on Ice (laser picks) that I'm staying away from BD till I get the chance for a proper test myself. Sure youll need to get used to it but it can be done. With Cassin alpine ice picks I use the Cassin weight picks, which I ordered separately. It will come in 1 size (53-61) and two colors: blue or grey. Feel free to message me for more details on Grivel tools. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. Just couldn't imagine climbing Unicorn with a Carbon tool. Still the one sided pick attachment puts me off BD for tooling. Unfortunately I dont have any photos of the crampons so youll just have to deal with some stock images from Petzl. Naturally for me, it makes sense as I already use BD picks. I've used X-dreams since 2017 and pretty happy with them. We will get back to you within one business day. Other than some scratches around the head and lower pommel, which are to be expected, the tools are showing some wear and small scratch marks on the handle, probably from getting wedged in somewhere. What is surprising, however, is that the rubber coating on the upper pommel has separated from the plastic griprest. The Master Alloy is probably one of the best swinging ice tools Ive used. I'm not sure about those safety tests either. If you could only choose one tool between the Ergo & X-Dream mainly for steep ice, which one would it be? The new picks will be hot forged where, in the past, they were cold forged. And after some early incidents with the bottom pommels on the latest-generation Nomics also breaking (mostly through misuse, however), would the Ergonomic designed, presumably, for much harsher use on technical ice and demanding mixed- and dry-tooling routes show any weaknesses? I would argue that first point and so did Dane Burns from back in the day (2011). The big benefit of the EPP construction is that it allows for an exceptionally light helmet and the Duetto doesnt disappoint here coming in at 195g. I upgraded from Nomics to Fuels after the head wobble began. I'm still not sure why Nomics have such a cult following with all the issues, but that's another story. One of the benefits of Hot forging is that it doesnt leave residual stress in the steel which is subsequently tempered for durability and strength. I'd buy another set of X-dreams tomorrow if I had to, although I'd consider the Grivel axes as well as they look similar, and the Grivel picks look really good, so probably no need to retrofit. You have 100 days time to do that. The matrix alloys are really good including on ice with the thin pick. Thaught they were very good on ice tbh. X-dreams , I am also a proud nomic (first gen) user and have not had any issues at all with mine but I wouldn't buy the new ones. Two things are certain, it will be outstanding tool and it will be super expensive. . It was a new model of the original Fusion. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/black-diamonds-fusion-2.html?m=1. One of only two mountaineering helmets that Im aware of in the uber-light, sub-200g category and the only one thats dual certified for both climbing and skiing. I was going to throw the eclimb Cryo 2 into the mix, but it looks like they're not making them anymore. The Alpinist Tech will come with anti-balling plates and full automatic toe and heel bails. Admittedly Grivel do sponsor him, but I'm sure he wouldn't trust his life to gear he thought was substandard! I'll let you guess. They are absolutely phenomenal. Do NOT follow this link or you will be banned from the site. The bd reactors are a bd copy of x dreams so I guess will be good also but I haven't seen them to compare. Alongside those early photos came comments like game-changing and next-level. Trying them for myself at Petzls press release event in Ouray a year or so later, I was also suitably impressed but knew the real test would come on my home ground back in the Canadian Rockies, on routes I knew well, and weather conditions I am more familiar with. Good luck with your quest for a replacement.Jeff. Part of that comes from the carbon-fiber shaft, but also unlike the Nomic, the Dark Machine doesn't come with pre-installed pick weights or a hammer (though Grivel offers a smattering of accessories you can attach). Maybe I'm being precious but I'll let someone else find out. (Though I suspect Grivels Dark Machine X will give the Ergo some solid competition when they finally show up.). Fuels climb mixed really well, and I'm the limiting factor when it comes to ice climbing so I can't really complain there. Entirely modular, the ice axe can be optimized for the terrain. For pure steep ice Id say X-Dream. Swap the Dry pick for the PurIce and now the Ergo is set to dominate on steep, overhanging and massively featured ice. Semi-auto toe and heel bails will be sold separately. Need the best times to visit Yellowstone Park? The Nomic ice axe sets the standard for ice climbing. however I think the later are a little bit more aggressive. Taking drytooling out of the equation. I haven't used them on any serious routes because I'm too scared of the damage that would occur. Grivel continues to forge the progression of climbing equipment with their newest ice tool: the Dark Machine. Don't discount the Reactors, the x-dream's are pretty flexible in the handle so not very confidence inspiring, just don't know anyone who's used them. Grivel is testing Dark machines for three years now and God knows what they experimented during this time. Reactor is done from scratch and in all essense X-Dream w/ BD pick placement & alpine hammer (and Id assume also adze for those that want something like that). For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. Unfortunately they dont have a larger, more functional hammer option yet but with the modular nature of the new hammer its more likely to happen. If you want some cash for them then let me know. Its an alloy tube wrapped in carbon, so it will be very durable. Again, outrageous price, but maybe all these axes can be found cheaper somewhere. Upon closer inspection it appears that the rubber covering is press-fit into small channels in the plastic grip, and I would imagine was also glued down to the griprest at some point. A friend of mine broke a pick recently as well on mixed. I recently got a quick go on a pair of x-dreams and they are great on pure ice, better than the nomic I think, also reports suggest they are also very good on mixed and dry tooling. These tools excel anywhere thats overhanging or horizontal, and they feel equally comfortable in large pockets as they do on small edges. It has a metal hook of course but also a small serrated blade for cutting ropes and cords. The idea here is of course a little more security. I've got a feeling the (as then) Charlet Moser Quark Ergos were earlier. Equipped with the pick weights, the balance moves up the shaft closer to the head and makes for easy, almost effortless, wrist-flick placements. Grivel is joining Petzl in the modular pick & pick accessory game with what theyre calling the Vario System. Just had a look at the Dark Machines. So are you just referring to surface damage? Petzl lost me as a customer due to the repeated wobbly head problem. That said I would take the chance on the Ractor if the price was right not the Grivel at that price! Grivel Tech Machine/Carbon, X dreams while I wait for the Dark Machines to arrive. I much prefer the X-dream handle as it feels more positive and it's nice to have a proper spike on the base of the handle to clip leashes. My only gripes are the BD picks seem quite soft and wear quickly (replaced with Kuznia Speju ones) and the head/pick bolt can work its self loose if you climb cracks where thats the main hooking part. The handle is very different from the Grivel tool handles of old (a good thing) with a tapered and somewhat square cross-section. I am surprised it is continuously marketed as for extreme grades only. Climber, photographer, Scotch aficionado. With the Dry pick on, the way these tools hold onto tiny rock edges is nothing short of astonishing, and this works in ice as well: a tiny ledge that most tools would pop off of is a solid hold for the Ergos. The swing didnt seem outstanding either. Signup for our newsletter to get notified about sales and new products. UKClimbing Limited. Also, on the i Ive comments. Can't find a good spot to go backcountry skiing? Also has anyone used the Grivel Master Alloys? I broke a handle trig rest in the first season but no signs of the problem repeating. Could be a cool axe but I do wonder how they fare on a proper mixed. > not sure about the carbon shaft in Scotland. Strangely, for a ski certified helmet, it doesnt come with a goggle strap yet. Is it still possible to getreplacement picks for the masters Greg. Perhaps I'm being over-cautious? Of course its still not a good idea to use tethers for anything more than ensuring you dont drop a tool! Exotic, how about the Octa Ice and dry axes. The Grivels do look good and I would be liking the Tech Machines if it wasn't for the handle, but not sure about the carbon shaft in Scotland. Also so when you put a mixed pic on the Master, it climbs mixed amazingly. I climbed withFusions recently and were terrible. But if you want a dedicated pair of tools for steep ice and overhanging rock, I cant think of a better choice than the Ergonomic. Thoughts on that? That said even the original Fusion works on ice. If necessary, do not hesitate to call us. Utilizing composite technology that has until now been the realm of smaller, custom manufacturers Grivel has created a line of very lightweight tools with a fantastic balance and swing well as far as I could tell without any ice to actually swing into. Theres nothing new about the pick design aside from how they connect with the rear accessories. My experience with Fusion 2s on ice was awful as well enough to put me off the Fuels as they have the same geometry (though a different weight distribution). Available at Uphill Pursuits; $420. Open Today: 10:00 am - 7:00 pm. Any suggestions for a new type of axe out there? Of course Ive already published an article specifically about climbing footwear so wont include anything of that nature here. But thats only ever been from BD athletes. Quark is good. On Oliund you can return a product for any reason: it is not what you expected, the shoe size is wrong, the pants' color is not the one your like. Oh and to those hoping to buy my nomic(s), I live in France, so don't want to faff with shipping! Lastly, anti-balling plates will be available. I've noticed that some people are using them in the ice world cup this season so must be good. Unfortunately the Lynx front points arent getting any cheaper at $80 USD per pair. But then again, one less thing to break (Yes people have broken the bolts/handle on the X-Dream). I know, youre thinking that Petzl wasnt at OR so why/how are they getting included. All rights reserved. The nomic and I simply dont get along, maybe I am strange. Great question I do love my X-Dreams, and with the new picks, weights, and other head/attachment options, they can now be customized as much as the Ergo. The balance feels more like the Nomics with the weights fitted. Of course, performance is one thing, and durability a whole other question. > I mostly climb ice (up to W6), some mixed (M6/7?) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10217059523673528&set=a.10211778831219517&type=3&theater. The Pur'Ice pick provides efficient placement in any type of ice. I climb ice, rock, trees, buildings, whatever: it's all fun! Strip off the pick weights and mini-hammer and youve got a lightweight drytooling machine like no other Ive used. On rock their only downfall comes on very laid-back terrain where the aggressive curve makes for awkward handle angles. Conversely, Ive only heard good things about the Reactors. 37 Church Street, Burlington, VT Even on very low angle spots mid pitch before getting steeper, no problems whatsoever. The Dark Machine X is very similar to the Dark Machine in construction just with more aggressive geometry for steeper climbing. Ive lost track of how many pairs of picks Ive swapped, or how many times Ive re-wrapped the upper shaft.
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