Being a mild keratolytic agent and strong moisturizermeans that high-percentage (10-40%) urea treatments are found effective in a bunch of skin disorders connected to excessive dryness and malfunctioning skin barrier such as ichthyosis, xerosis, psoriasis,eczema and seborrheic dermatitis. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. This is called self-emulsifying and SE in its name stands for that. Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. And it's natural, both Ecocert and Cosmos approved. According to manufacturer info, it's also amoisturizer and helps to make the product feel great on the skin. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. So great for skin typesin need of healing and soothing. Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. And in the skin. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. A not so strong preservative that doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). The neutralized form of gluconic acid. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. It is rapidlyabsorbed and gives the skin a soft and gentle feel. A copper salt (copper cation + gluconate anion)probably best known for promoting cellular regeneration and wound healing. It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. It's a good skin moisturizer, leaves a silky, smooth feel on the skin and can help to reduce irritation caused by some not-so-nice ingredients (like surfactants). Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Topical estrogen is known to decrease skin thinning and collagen loss and soy might be able to do the same, especially during and after menopause when natural estrogen levels run low. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. The essential oil created by steam distilling the leaves of theEucalyptus tree. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It's a film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7, trade named Sepigel 305). In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. BTW, its also a food additive. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. Infused with the nutrient-rich Miracle Broth. Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. The official descriptionin the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredientlisting is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. A very common ingredient that can be found inall cell membranes. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. Its main active components are antioxidant phenolic acids and flavonoids. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. This increases Glyceryl Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying abilities. But even if everything is right, its not enough on its own. Together with ceramides and fatty acids, they play a vital role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. A real oldie but a goodie. If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know whats really in it. Looking at the research, we were surprised to find how versatile Caffeine is. This luxurious cream delivers the same radiance and renewal that made the original Crme de la Mer a legend in a supple new texture. Overall, it is the gold-standard occlusive agent known today and a tub of Vaseline comes in handy in any household to heal cracked lips or other severely dry skin patches. It is an awesome natural moisturizing factor, aka NMF. There is also some promising, but as yet not in-vivo (done on real people), research that soybean extract can stimulate both elastin and collagen synthesis andthus lead tohealthier, younger-looking skin. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. It is also used as a water repellent additive and to reduce the tackiness and stickiness of otheringredients. It's also often used to create liposomes. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. The difference between "normal"Glyceryl Stearateand this guy is that the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap molecules, such assodiumstearate. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improvewater-resistance of sunscreens. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). Zinc has multiple magic abilities: it is antibacterial (including evil, acne-causingP. acnes) and sebum-regulating (5-reductase inhibitor), great for acne-prone skin types. Good old water, aka H2O. Not bad! A petroleum-derived emollient and thickener. But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin,protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length.The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. In a 2001 worldwide study with 178 people with known sensitization to fragrances citronellol tested positive in 5.6% of the cases. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Its not a strong one and doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. reducing TEWL by more than 40%) isnot good as it can create a nice moist place for fungi and bacteria to grow. It's used as anemulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. It's used as anemulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner(a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). A film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. It might also have antioxidant and skin whiting properties. We have to admit thatAlgae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. A fancy name for sugar. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. A plant extract coming from glasswort, a type of succulentthat grows in the salt marshes along the coastline of South Korea. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. It is also cosmetically very elegant with a non-tacky, non-oily and smooth skin feel. Genistein is also proven to inhibit UV induced redness in human skin. Its a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type andeasy to formulate with. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). It is thereto promotethe absorption and bioavailabilityof zinc and also plays a role incellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA). It's an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. But as it turns out, the soybean has a bunch of useful active components and soybean extract is an interesting cosmetic ingredient with a wide range of possible effects. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Its the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. It's also used in oral care products where itreduces the bitterness of other ingredients. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5%Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approvedMinoxidil stuff. We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. It goes by the trade name "Phytodermina Lifting" that refers to two things: it's a "lifting" ingredient and it comes from plant raw materials. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. Please try again later! So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin Cthreefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. If you are more of a "let's treat this aging thing properly" type, then it's probably not your thing. What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) In cosmetics it's quite the multi-tasker: it's an emollient and water-binding ingredient but it's also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. It's a "lifting" ingredient coming from plant raw materials. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. A biocompatible copolymer (a big molecule that consists of more than one type of building blocks) that has the same structure as important cell membrane ingredient, phospholipid. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. A supercommon and cheap fragrance ingredient. the heart of La Mer's profound powers of transformation, it penetrates deeply to replenish moisture and strengthen skin. As for petrolatum and safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thing as we have written at mineral oil. You can read some more atGlyceryl Stearate >>. Third,ATIP seems to have all three magic abilitiesof pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has askin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. The sodium salt form of PCA is an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. It acts asa mild keratolytic agent(some of its moisturizingaction is thought to come from urea's abilityto break down bonds in the protein called filaggrin and thus freeing up amino acids in the skin), enhancesantimicrobial peptide expression and improvesskin barrier function. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. stays on the skin)dimethicone as the two together forma water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length. An oily ingredient that can magically blend with water all by itself (called Self Emulsifying). :) It has water-binding properties, which means that it helps to keep your skin nice and hydrated. A type of sugar that haswater-bindingproperties and helps to keep your skinhydrated. The well-known stimulant from coffee. If you are fighting acne and have looked into oral supplements, chances are that zinc gluconate sounds familiar to you. This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. Comes from a coconut oil derived fatty alcohol, lauryl alcohol. An extract that comes from one or more of the 20 000 kinds of algae out there. Butylene glycol, or lets just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. Other than that its a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. BGs main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. Other than that, copper is also involved in several enzyme systems: it is a cofactor for the antioxidant enzyme,superoxide dismutaseand also a cofactor for the melanin stimulating enzyme, tyrosinase. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. It's in many plants, e.g. NMFs are important components that help the skin to hold onto water and keep it plump, elastic and hydrated. The manufacturer claims that it moisturizes, gives the skin softness and smoothness, and helps make-up to stay on after application. It's not a new ingredient, it has been used both as a food and cosmetics additive since the 1970s. Also used for scar treatment. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. Its in our products to make it smell nice. There is, for example,an algae extract trade-named Lanablue that comes fromblue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effects(i.e. The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hairlike no other thing. It also does not absorb into the skinbut sits on top of it and that in itself greatly minimises health risks. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. Fragrance in the US and parfum in the EU is a generic term on the ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!). The essential oil created by steam distilling the leaves of theEucalyptus tree. On the skin, it haswater-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). Thanks. Probably themost common silicone of all. A copper salt that is known to promote cellular regeneration and also has some antioxidant and tan-activating properties. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. The manufacturer did several studies to prove thatArgireline really works and it does (just not as well as Botox). A not-very-interesting helper ingredient that is used as an emulsifier and/or surfactant. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. It's a colorless, pale yellow oil with a camphoraceous aroma used traditionally in vapor rubs to treatcoughs. The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". Overall, soybean extract is a promising and multi-functional active, a nice addition to most ingredient lists. This helpsto prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. It also imparts gloss, softness and better manageability to hair. It can also be a pH regulator and a humectant (helps skin to cling onto water). An emollient ester giving along-lasting lubricious skin feel. When you hear the word Soy, you probably associate it with soy sauce or tofu, not skincare. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Its main active components are antioxidant phenolic acids and flavonoidsas well as small and large soy proteins. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. The problem with linalool is, that just like limoneneit oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Yes, it's the thing that can be found naturally in pee. As for smearing zinc gluconate all over your face, it is also not a bad idea. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects (though it seems now that the INCI name of Lanablue was changed to Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract). If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it mighthave some additional anti-aging properties. It also has a long history of safe use, as it was first used as a skincare product more than 100 years ago, in 1872to be precise. It sits on top of the skin and hinders so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) like nothingelse. It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structuredsilicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. In addition,vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in thecase of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier. A zinc salt known for its soothing and wound healing properties as well as for its anti-acne properties. A type fo sugar, usuallyrefined from cane or beet sugar. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. It also stimulatesantioxidant enzyme systems (mainly superoxide dismutase) and has nice wound healing abilitiesacting mainly in the first,proliferation phase. A fragrance with a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. But as it turns out, the soybean has a bunch of useful active components and soybean extract is an interesting cosmetic ingredient with a wide range of possible effects. So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, You can read all about the pure form here, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin. It's also often used to create liposomes. The large proteins give soybean extract nice skin smoothing and softening properties, while the small proteins (soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI) and Bowman-Birk inhibitor (BBI)) are thought to inhibit skin pigmentationanddelay hair regrowth. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. It is a zinc salt that has research proving it to be effective againstinflammatory acne, though not quite as effective as theantibiotic minocycline (31.2% vs. 63.4% success rate). Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one publishedin-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. It's a good skin moisturizer and can also help to reduce irritation. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. This is useful for most pigmentation situationsbut, if you have melasma, soy is not for youas melasma isestrogen-mediated and soy is a well-knownphytoestrogen. So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record).
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